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A three channel RC plane will typically have an elevator and a throttle control, and either an aileron or rudder control but not both. If the plane has ailerons, turning is accomplished by rolling the plane left or right and applying the correct amount of up-elevator. If the plane has a rudder instead, the wing needs to have a significant amount of dihedral (V-bend in the wing). The rudder will turn the plane so that one wing will turn into the wind, causing it to lift and roll the aircraft. Many trainers and electric park fliers use this technique. A more complex four channel model is usually turned like a full size aircraft; it is rolled into a turn with ailerons and then a small amount of ‘back pressure’ is required to maintain height. This is required because the lift vector, which would be pointing vertically upwards in level flight, is now angled inwards so some of the lift is turning the aircraft. A higher overall amount of lift is required so that the vertical component remains sufficient for a level turn. For the perfectionist, a small amount of rudder can be applied when rolling into or out of a turn, in the direction of the rolling motion to correct adverse yaw. Many radio controlled aircraft, especially the low end `toy’ models, are designed to be flown with no movable control surfaces at all. Instead, the planes typically have two propellers or ducted fans, one on each wing and the plane is controlled only by this. Usually the planes only have two control channels — throttle and yaw. In general this results in a plane that flies poorly and is very difficult to fly, though some fly better than others. Some model planes are designed this way because it’s often cheaper and lighter to control the speed of a motor than it is to actually provide a moving control surface.

V-tail systems

A V-Tail is a way of combining the control surfaces of the standard “+” configuration of Rudder and Elevator into a V shape. These ruddervators are controlled with two channels and mechanical or electronic mixing. An important part of the V-Tail configuration is the exact angle of the two surfaces relative to each other and the wing, otherwise you will have incorrect ratios of elevator and rudder. The mixing works as follows: When receiving rudder input, the two servos work together, moving both control surfaces to the left or right, inducing yaw. On elevator input, the servos work opposite, one surface moves to the “left” and the other to the “right” which gives the effect of both moving up and down, causing pitch changes in the aircraft. V-Tails are very popular in Europe, especially for gliders. In the US, the T-Tail is more common. V-Tails have the advantage of being lighter and creating less drag. They also are less likely to break at landing or take-off due to the tail striking something on the ground like an ant mound or a rock.

I have a Caliber 30 that I’ve been working on for about 5years now. You know mess with it abit and put it up. When the heli is at idle should the blades be rotating? I had to squeeze the clutch because it expanded when the lining fell out so not sure if I have enough clearence. Engine starts fine and I can hold the blades but when I let go they want to rotate.I’ve seen them do it and I’ve seen them don’t, what can I saw? If you need to to sort of an effort to hold the blades still then its probably best if you loosen the clutch a bit since it’ll be very unpleasant trying to carry the heli while at idle to the helipad when its trying to spin, but if your fine with that it shouldn’t be a problem. I have looked at videos and have seen it both ways. I think I would like to have them not spinning, it would be alot easier to carry the heli with out the blades spinning. it actually rotates too much where if you let it go and try to stop them it is just too much force behind them to stop them easy. I have adjusted the clutch and now I’m going out side to try it.

I am building a Gaui 550 and am at the electronics stage: when i put in the servo for the rudder where exactly does the servo wire go? … i am looking at pictures of build and it seems that is goes in the frame of the heli - if so then does it go between the belt? …if so then isn’t this a little risky? …but if i run it outside the frame then does it not run the risk of getting caught in the arm that operates the tail apparatus? Also i am thinking of running two 11.1v batteries - i was told if i solder a (single) Deans plug to the ESC then have the Deans series adapter that pugs into it that i will decease current flow thus decreasing my flight time …if this is so then does it decrease my flight time that significantly? vs soldering the series wires directly to the ESC? …. my thought was if i did not, then i could always have the luxury of coming back if i decided to get one battery (vs the two in series) and plug it in straight to the ESC Deans.

I ran the wire inside making sure to use zip ties to keep it against the frame. As to the batteries, just use the battery series connector, you’re not going to notice the difference. People that say you will are kidding themselves. There might be 10 seconds worth of flying time difference.I do highly suggest you use a separate 7.4v battery and ubec to power the electronics though. I don’t like the built in bec in an esc dropping the voltage from 22.2v down to 6v. A nice little 2S 1500-2000mah lipo is light enough that it doesn’t change much of the flying characteristics. I also like the fact that even if something goes wrong with the main power system you still have power to the receiver and servos to try an auto.I have aquired a used Gaui 550 with a bad OWB. What is the lastest and correct part numbers for the bearing and shaft? Better 19T or 20T on the bearing? Any help appreciated. Live long and prosper! Sorry, been away on business for a week. You can find most of the parts for the Gaui 550 at www.readyheli.com. Also, the pinion you choose will really be determined by the motor you’re using and the head speed you want. A higher pinion will give you more headspeed but be sure it’s not too high a gearing which will bog down some cheaper motors.

Thanks Druss, have you ever had an intermittant OWB? I took this thing out and it seemed to be fine, reinstalled and started up slow, then it would let go and come back with some very heavy tail swings!!! Scary! Anyway, I have used Readyheli in the past but they were out of stock on the shaft so I found OhYesRC. We will see how their service is…. The motor is a Trex 600 and I am experimenting with different gearing, I bought this heli off the forum, it has been set up for some heavy 3D which is NOT my thing. Right now I just want to get it in the air. I’ve never had an issue with the one way bearing, if you’re having any troubles with it I’d suggest replacing it. readyheli does seem to be out of a lot of the parts. there is an online store up here in canada called www.rotortech.ca that carries gaui parts and a store in hong kong called www.flying-hobby.com which I’ve ordered from.